The City of Bristol's Garden Wine Gardens: Foot-Stomping Grapes in Urban Gardens
Each 20 minutes or so, an ageing diesel-powered railway carriage arrives at a spray-painted station. Nearby, a police siren cuts through the almost continuous traffic drone. Commuters rush by falling apart, ivy-covered fencing panels as storm clouds gather.
It is maybe the least likely spot you expect to find a well-established grape-growing plot. But James Bayliss-Smith has cultivated 40 mature vines heavy with plump purplish berries on a rambling allotment sandwiched between a line of historic homes and a commuter railway just above Bristol downtown.
"I've noticed individuals hiding heroin or other items in the shrubbery," states the grower. "Yet you simply continue ... and keep tending to your grapevines."
Bayliss-Smith, 46, a documentary cameraman who also has a kombucha drinks business, is not the only urban winemaker. He has organized a loose collective of cultivators who make wine from several discreet city grape gardens nestled in private yards and allotments across the city. The project is too clandestine to have an official name yet, but the collective's messaging chat is named Grape Expectations.
Urban Wine Gardens Around the Globe
So far, Bayliss-Smith's allotment is the only one registered in the Urban Vineyards Association's upcoming world atlas, which features more famous urban wineries such as the eighteen hundred plants on the slopes of the French capital's historic Montmartre neighbourhood and over three thousand grapevines overlooking and within the Italian city. Based in Italy charitable organization is at the vanguard of a initiative re-establishing city vineyards in traditional winemaking countries, but has identified them throughout the world, including urban centers in Japan, South Asia and Central Asia.
"Grape gardens assist cities stay more eco-friendly and more diverse. They preserve land from construction by establishing long-term, productive farming plots within urban environments," says the organization's leader.
Similar to other vintages, those produced in cities are a product of the soils the plants grow in, the unpredictability of the climate and the people who care for the fruit. "A bottle of wine embodies the beauty, community, environment and history of a city," notes the spokesperson.
Mystery Eastern European Variety
Back in Bristol, Bayliss-Smith is in a urgent timeline to harvest the grapevines he cultivated from a cutting left in his garden by a Polish family. If the precipitation comes, then the birds may take advantage to attack again. "Here we have the enigmatic Eastern European variety," he says, as he removes bruised and mouldy grapes from the glistering bunches. "The variety remains uncertain what variety they are, but they're definitely disease-resistant. Unlike premium grapes – Burgundy grapes, white wine grapes and other famous French grapes – you don't have to treat them with chemicals ... this could be a unique cultivar that was developed by the Eastern Bloc."
Collective Activities Throughout the City
Additional participants of the group are additionally taking advantage of bright periods between bursts of autumn rain. On the terrace with views of Bristol's glistening harbour, where medieval merchant vessels once bobbed with barrels of wine from France and the Iberian peninsula, Katy Grant is harvesting her rondo grapes from approximately 50 plants. "I adore the smell of the grapevines. The scent is so reminiscent," she remarks, pausing with a container of grapes resting on her arm. "It recalls the fragrance of Provence when you roll down the car windows on vacation."
Grant, fifty-two, who has spent over 20 years working for humanitarian organizations in conflict zones, unexpectedly took over the grape garden when she returned to the United Kingdom from Kenya with her household in recent years. She felt an strong responsibility to look after the grapevines in the garden of their recently acquired property. "This plot has already survived three different owners," she explains. "I deeply appreciate the concept of natural stewardship – of passing this on to future caretakers so they can keep cultivating from this land."
Terraced Gardens and Natural Production
A short walk away, the final two members of the collective are hard at work on the steep inclines of the local river valley. One filmmaker has cultivated more than 150 plants situated on ledges in her wild half-acre garden, which tumbles down towards the silty River Avon. "People are always surprised," she notes, indicating the interwoven grape garden. "It's astonishing to them they are viewing grapevine lines in a urban neighborhood."
Today, Scofield, 60, is picking bunches of dusty purple Rondo grapes from rows of vines arranged along the hillside with the help of her daughter, her family member. Scofield, a wildlife and conservation film-maker who has worked on Netflix's nature programming and television network's gardening shows, was inspired to cultivate vines after seeing her neighbor's vines. She has learned that hobbyists can make intriguing, enjoyable traditional vintage, which can sell for more than seven pounds a glass in the growing number of wine bars focusing on minimal-intervention vintages. "It's just incredibly satisfying that you can truly create good, traditional vintage," she says. "It is quite on trend, but in reality it's resurrecting an old way of making vintage."
"During foot-stomping the grapes, all the natural microorganisms come off the skins into the liquid," explains Scofield, partially submerged in a bucket of tiny stems, seeds and red liquid. "This represents how wines were made traditionally, but industrial wineries introduce preservatives to eliminate the natural cultures and subsequently incorporate a commercially produced culture."
Difficult Conditions and Creative Approaches
A few doors down sprightly retiree another cultivator, who motivated Scofield to establish her vines, has assembled his friends to harvest white wine varieties from the 100 vines he has laid out neatly across multiple levels. Reeve, a Lancashire-born physical education instructor who taught at the local university cultivated an interest in wine on regular visits to Europe. But it is a challenge to grow this particular variety in the humidity of the valley, with temperature fluctuations sweeping in and out from the Bristol Channel. "I wanted to make French-style vintages in this location, which is somewhat ambitious," says the retiree with amusement. "Chardonnay is late to ripen and particularly vulnerable to fungal infections."
"I wanted to make European-style vintages here, which is rather ambitious"
The unpredictable local weather is not the only challenge encountered by grape cultivators. The gardener has had to install a barrier on