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Athens

Craggy coves and beautiful beaches form the magnificent combination that is the coastline of Athens. Thus at the close of an fall afternoon, I found myself with a rather agreeable dilemma: where to go to relax bones still aching for a last splash of summer sun. For this city offers something that many continental destinations do not: a shoreline of over 60 kilometers dotted with beaches many a Aegean isle would envy.

Out of season, the coasts of the region still have a powerful draw, as I found when taking a dip into a dusk across the Vouliagmeni Bay. For those seeking revitalization in marine blue waters primed to turn golden as the sun sets, swimming off one of the coastline's accessible or exclusive beaches does not disappoint.

With ocean spray still clinging to my skin, I sat at a local tavern, a tavern whose regional cuisine is as good as the breathtaking panorama of the inlet it overlooks. In a tribute to times past, the meze is served on large wooden trays.

The city is as renowned for its hills as its coastline: rising terrain within sight of the Acropolis that make it a treasure trove for strollers when the weather cools. For those who want to get away from a metropolis that sprawls across almost 200 square miles, these rocky outcrops – holders of wonderful titles such as the Nymphs' Hill and the Muses' Hill – are a must-see.

In my view, this ancient capital is the continent's most spiritual and magnificent.

If you climb the top of Lycabettus Hill, the city’s tallest peak, either on foot or on the cable railway, the prize is a stunning view of the entire Argo-Saronic Gulf and the islands beyond.

If you want to stay centrally, the historic Plaka district remains the best base. The traditional Adrian hotel has rooms looking on to the northern face of the Acropolis from about £120 B&B. In the vicinity, Zorbas is a favourite restaurant with residents and serves the most succulent lamb cutlets. With views of the ancient monument, Athens’ elevated dining spots are highly evocative and perfect for warm autumn evenings – for a special experience head to a top restaurant or the Michelin‑starred Macris.

Palermo

Think Neapolitan margherita is the last word in pizza? Think again. In this city they prefer Sicilian pizza, a soft, well-risen rectangle of bread topped with rich, onion-laden tomato sauce and sprinkled with local cheese and oregano. Hearty, filling and cozy, it’s sold in bakeries, stands and stalls throughout the town (a central street in the historic centre usually has multiple sellers).

We sample it at a stand on Piazza della Kalsa, near where we’re staying. Panineria Chiluzzo often has long queues, but they move quickly as employees dish out pieces of sfincione, as well as arancini and chickpea fritters. There are a couple of seats under the shade outside, but we eat as we walk into the city along narrow a street. This is a pleasant stroll in October but wouldn’t be so in summer. As hot spells rolled over Europe this year, the mercury in Sicily reached 104F in the shadow. At the summer's peak one hot spot reached an unprecedented 70C at the surface.

We wander the streets and enjoy how its rich past is etched in its architecture.

Now, as temperatures creep to 24C by the afternoon, we can explore the city and savour how its long history is visible in its roads. Passing baroque and art nouveau palaces, and a famous coffee shop, the city’s oldest coffee roastery, we take in the unique architecture of the 12th-century San Cataldo Church; Piazza Pretoria, with its Renaissance water feature, installed under Spanish rule; and the impressive cathedral, constructed on the site of a ancient mosque.

On the way back we detour to Vucciria market, the roots of which also stretch back over a millennium. Some criticize its touristification, but it is still noisy and brilliantly theatrical. Being adventurous, we pause for a classic pani câ meusa, which is better than expected, with its mildly sugary “meat” set off by grated cheese. The stallholder is especially pleased of his offal specialty but, unfortunately, no amount of salt and lemon can make those a treat for me.

We’re glad to head back to more peaceful the old quarter, the former Arab quarter to the east, which was bombed in the World War II and languished for years before being renewed this era. Maison Butera (ocean-facing rooms from €161 B&B) is a small guesthouse with lots to see nearby. Up the street is Palazzo Butera, a 17th-century baroque pile renovated and reopened in recently to display the an art collection, which includes works by contemporary artists and pop art icons.

Next day we stroll 10 minutes to Palermo’s Botanical Garden, with its notable multi-trunk fig tree. Songbirds are singing their hearts out as the light shines. Soon we’ll be in London, the clocks will go back and the cold season will start. We relish a last week in the light.

Vienna

While mourning the close of the warm season and spending time at seaside spots and bathing spots on the branches of the Danube, I’m now seeking a new hue. This city is a city of green spaces and well-kept lawns, meadow sweeps and woodland belts, which swap their green canopy for a rusty amber and yellowish tint the locals call golden autumn.

I leave behind the impressive buildings and old streets of the downtown. South-west of it, Schloss Schönbrunn Park splays from the magnificent Habsburg summer residence, where the gold isn’t limited for the inside, and makes its way into corridors of towering bronzed hedgerows and curved walkways that lead to the bright building.

To the east, in the city’s a large park, I walk beneath the chestnut trees of the Hauptallee, an avenue that’s almost three miles long and ancient. On the edge of the park, the retro-styled Superbude Prater hotel (rooms from $85 with breakfast) is a ideally located retreat.

In a city with hundreds of urban farms (thanks to a long-standing commitment to encouraging green spaces and fostering local culture), the fall brings a feast of fresh produce on restaurant offerings. Squash soup is the classic dish – best devoured in a wood-panelled pub such as the decorated a popular spot – and accompanied by a Wiener Schnitzel.

The city is a place of parks and gardens that swap their green cover for a golden and warm hue.

Little known, the capital is the sole continental city to grow wine within its city limits, with 700 hectares of grape fields. There are fourteen official urban paths, known as walking routes. Route one takes you through the wine country of a district. Relax in a hillside Heuriger such as Wieninger am Nussberg, drinking a zesty grüner veltliner with a platter (an assortment of cold cuts and cheese), while enjoying the sublime city vista.

The hours are getting briefer, but now is the perfect time to wander among the city's stately palaces, museums and old homes – a {cultural crop|